Yes. Engineered wood uses a floating construction like laminate, so it goes over the Ribbon with no screed and no self-levelling compound. Unlike solid timber it is built from multiple layers, which makes it more stable when it is exposed to normal changes in heat and moisture.
Why engineered wood rather than solid
Solid timber is one piece of wood. It expands and contracts as a single body when the temperature and humidity change, which is what causes gaps between boards, cupping and occasionally warping.
Engineered wood is made from multiple layers laid in different directions. That construction is what makes it more stable, and it is why it is the wood floor we point people at when there is heating underneath.
Solid wood is not off the table either. Solid floors are fitted on battens, and correctly fitted on battens they work well over the ribbon. What you cannot do is lay solid boards straight onto the ribbon the way you can with engineered. Plan the batten build-up before you buy the boards, not after.
Acclimatise the boards before they go down, and use the expansion gap the board manufacturer specifies. That gap is in the flooring, not the heating: the ribbon needs no gap around the edges and runs right up to the walls.
What the finished build-up comes to
| Subfloor | Levelled, clean and dry |
| Insulation | 6mm Therm-All, which is acoustic, thermal and a 1000-gauge DPM in one |
| Heating | The Ribbon at 1.8mm, taped down with EkoBuild's own high-tech tape |
| Floor finish | Engineered wood, floating, typically a 15mm board |
| Maximum board thickness | 22mm. Thicker than that and warm-up stretches out and efficiency drops |
| Total added height | About 21mm with a 15mm engineered board |
| Screed or self-leveller | None |
| Warm-up through the floor | 15 to 20 minutes |
| Certified to | Certified to EN 60335-2-96, the safety standard for flexible sheet heating elements for room heating, plus EN 60335-1 and EN 62233. Class II, double insulated. UL Listed for the US and Canada under UL 1693 and CSA C22.2 No. 217 for radiant space heating, certificate 20130417-E349312, and certified by Nemko under certificate P15220551 |
Temperature, and the approval question
Normally you have to check that a particular engineered wood product is approved for underfloor heating, because most systems run hot enough to be a problem for a timber board.
The Ribbon operates at 27 to 28°C, averaging about 27°C, and the floor surface ends up at 24 to 25°C once the heat has come up through the board. No floor surface should exceed 27 to 28°C.
Set the manufacturer's figure as the cap on the thermostat's floor probe and the board cannot be taken past what it is rated for.
Can it be the room's main heating?
Yes. At 150W per m² with at least 70% of the floor covered, in a room and property that suit it, the Ribbon is designed as the primary heat source.
Below 70% it is a supplementary heat source, and we spec an infrared panel to make up the gap
Price your wood floor
Map the room in the free Room Designer for the Ribbon layout, the coverage figure and the price.
Underfloor heating under engineered wood FAQs
Can you put underfloor heating under engineered wood?
Yes. It floats straight over the Ribbon with no screed, no self-leveller and no battens, at up to 22mm thick. The whole build-up comes to about 21mm with a 15mm engineered board.
Is engineered wood better than solid wood over heating?
Engineered is the simpler fit, because it goes straight over the ribbon with no battens, at up to 22mm thick. Solid wood works too, but it has to be fitted on battens.
What temperature does it run at?
The Ribbon operates at 27 to 28°C, averaging about 27°C, with 24 to 25°C at the floor surface. No floor surface should exceed 27 to 28°C.
How long does wood take to warm up?
The Ribbon is producing heat in about 3 minutes, and warmth comes through wood or laminate in 15 to 20 minutes.
Do I need an expansion gap?
Your floor boards do, whatever the board manufacturer specifies, and acclimatise the boards before fitting. The heating ribbon does not. It needs no gap around the edges of the room and can run right up to the walls.