Yes. Engineered wood uses a floating construction like laminate, so it goes over the Ribbon with no screed and no self-levelling compound. Unlike solid timber it is built from multiple layers, which makes it more stable when it is exposed to normal changes in heat and moisture.
Why engineered wood rather than solid
Solid timber is one piece of wood. It expands and contracts as a single body when the temperature and humidity change, which is what causes gaps between boards, cupping and occasionally warping.
Engineered wood is made from multiple layers laid in different directions. That construction is what makes it more stable, and it is why it is the wood floor we point people at when there is heating underneath.
Solid timber needs a different construction from floating engineered wood. Use battens unless the timber manufacturer specifies another suitable construction, and agree the complete build-up before buying the boards.
Acclimatise the boards before they go down, and use the expansion gap the board manufacturer specifies. That gap is in the flooring, not the heating: the ribbon needs no gap around the edges and runs right up to the walls.
What the finished build-up comes to
| Subfloor | Levelled, clean and dry |
| Insulation | 6mm Therm-All, which is thermal and acoustic insulation for compatible floating floors |
| Heating | The Ribbon at 1.8mm, taped down with EkoBuild's own high-tech tape |
| Floor finish | Engineered wood, floating, typically a 15mm board |
| Maximum board thickness | 22mm in this guidance; confirm the exact board and complete construction before fitting |
| Total added height | Add the actual insulation, Ribbon and board thicknesses, plus any other required layers. |
| Screed or self-leveller | None |
| Warm-up through the floor | Floor-dependent |
| Supplier paperwork | Supplier paperwork includes Nemko certificate P15220551, dated 3 December 2015, for AHT floor-heating elements, Class II, tested against EN 60335-1, EN 60335-2-96 and EN 62233. Ask EkoBuild for the documentation applying to the product supplied. |
Temperature, and the approval question
Check that the exact engineered board is approved for the selected heating system and floating construction. Follow its temperature, moisture and installation requirements.
Follow the exact flooring manufacturer’s temperature limit and installation requirements. A suitable thermostat and floor sensor must limit the floor temperature. Do not assume the heating mat automatically stays below a flooring limit: controls, floor construction and commissioning all matter.
Set and commission the floor-temperature limit from the board manufacturer's instructions using suitable controls and a correctly positioned sensor. Keep heat free to escape; a setting alone does not guarantee the temperature at every point.
Can it be the room's main heating?
Ribbon can provide primary heating when the usable output from the fitted mats meets the room’s calculated heat loss at the permitted floor temperature. Around 70–80% useful coverage is a planning aim, not a pass/fail test. Confirm the complete heating design before removing existing heating.
Lower coverage needs a room-specific output and heat-loss assessment; it does not automatically require an infrared panel
Price your wood floor
Map the room in the free Room Designer for the Ribbon layout, the coverage figure and the price.
Underfloor heating under engineered wood FAQs
Can you put underfloor heating under engineered wood?
Yes. It floats straight over the Ribbon with no screed, no self-leveller and no battens, at up to 22mm thick. Calculate the complete height from the selected insulation, Ribbon, board and any additional required layers.
Is engineered wood better than solid wood over heating?
Engineered is the simpler fit, because it goes straight over the ribbon with no battens, at up to 22mm thick. Solid timber uses battens unless its manufacturer specifies another suitable construction.
What temperature does it run at?
Follow the exact flooring manufacturer’s temperature limit and installation requirements. A suitable thermostat and floor sensor must limit the floor temperature. Do not assume the heating mat automatically stays below a flooring limit: controls, floor construction and commissioning all matter.
How long does wood take to warm up?
Warm-up time varies with the floor construction, starting temperature, control settings and room conditions. Initial warmth at the surface is different from heating the whole room; a demonstration time is not a guaranteed result for your installation.
Do I need an expansion gap?
Your floor boards do, whatever the board manufacturer specifies, and acclimatise the boards before fitting. The heating ribbon does not. It needs no gap around the edges of the room and can run right up to the walls.