Yes. Laminate is fitted as a floating floor, which makes it a natural match for a thin dry heating system. The Ribbon is 1.8mm and goes down over insulation with no screed, no self-levelling compound and no overboard. Nothing has to dry before the flooring goes on.
Why laminate is the easy one
One of the problems homeowners run into is that they are told which heating system they need before anybody asks what flooring they want. The floor covering should be one of the first things discussed, because laminate, engineered wood and LVT are not installed in exactly the same way.
Laminate is normally fitted as a floating floor, which means it is not glued or fixed down to the subfloor. That makes it the most straightforward of the three.
Our insulation goes over the prepared subfloor. It is 6mm Therm-All, which is thermal and acoustic insulation for compatible floating floors. The Ribbon at 1.8mm is rolled out and secured over the top of it, and the laminate floats over that.
There is no screed. There is no self-levelling compound. There is no overboard. And there is no wet layer that has to dry before the flooring can be fitted.
What the finished build-up comes to
| Subfloor | Levelled, clean and dry |
| Insulation | 6mm Therm-All, which is thermal and acoustic insulation for compatible floating floors |
| Heating | The Ribbon at 1.8mm, taped down with EkoBuild's own high-tech tape |
| Floor finish | Laminate, floating |
| Total added height | Add the 6mm insulation, 1.8mm Ribbon, actual laminate thickness and any other required layers. |
| Screed or self-leveller | None |
| Warm-up through the floor | Floor-dependent |
| Supplier paperwork | Supplier paperwork includes Nemko certificate P15220551, dated 3 December 2015, for AHT floor-heating elements, Class II, tested against EN 60335-1, EN 60335-2-96 and EN 62233. Ask EkoBuild for the documentation applying to the product supplied. |
Temperature, and what the boards have to be rated for
Every heating installation needs flooring approved for the selected system. Follow the board manufacturer’s temperature limit, moisture requirements and installation method, with suitable controls and a floor sensor.
Follow the exact flooring manufacturer’s temperature limit and installation requirements. A suitable thermostat and floor sensor must limit the floor temperature. Do not assume the heating mat automatically stays below a flooring limit: controls, floor construction and commissioning all matter.
Use the jointing method and expansion gaps specified by the laminate manufacturer. Do not glue a click joint unless its instructions require it. Check any integral underlay and the complete floor construction before adding another underlay layer.
Can it be the room's main heating?
Ribbon can provide primary heating when the usable output from the fitted mats meets the room’s calculated heat loss at the permitted floor temperature. Around 70–80% useful coverage is a planning aim, not a pass/fail test. Confirm the complete heating design before removing existing heating.
Higher useful coverage may improve uniformity. Lower coverage needs a room-specific output and heat-loss assessment; it does not automatically require an infrared panel
That is the difference between a system installed to take the cold feeling off a floor and one using the available floor as a broad heat source that warms the room above it.
What goes wrong under laminate
None of these are laminate's fault. They are all avoidable.
- An integral-underlay board with a second underlay added underneath it, insulating the room from its own heating.
- No expansion gap, so the floor lifts as it warms and cools.
- The heating element must never be cut, shortened or overlapped
- Never put additional insulation, Kingspan, foam, beanbags or a mattress on top of the Ribbon. The heat has to escape upward. Trap it and the element keeps climbing
- Ignoring downward heat loss. Select insulation suited to the subfloor and complete floor construction. The amount of heat lost downwards depends on the actual layers and operating conditions.
Related video
Watch the reviewed short clip and read its matching transcript. Use the current guidance on this page and the supplied product instructions for planning and fitting. Choosing compatible floor coverings: video, captions and transcript.
Price your laminate room
Draw the room in the free Room Designer and it works out the Ribbon layout, the fitted area and coverage and the price.
Underfloor heating under laminate FAQs
Can you put underfloor heating under laminate?
Compatible laminate can use the specified dry floating construction. Add the 6mm insulation, 1.8mm Ribbon, actual laminate thickness and any other required layers to calculate the finished height. Check the board manufacturer’s heating, jointing and temperature requirements.
How long does laminate take to warm up?
Warm-up time varies with the floor construction, starting temperature, control settings and room conditions. Initial warmth at the surface is different from heating the whole room; a demonstration time is not a guaranteed result for your installation.
Does laminate need to be rated for underfloor heating?
Follow the exact flooring manufacturer’s temperature limit and installation requirements. A suitable thermostat and floor sensor must limit the floor temperature. Do not assume the heating mat automatically stays below a flooring limit: controls, floor construction and commissioning all matter.
Do I need screed under laminate?
No. The Ribbon is a dry system. No screed, no self-levelling compound, no overboard and no drying time.
Can it be my only heating?
Ribbon can provide primary heating when the usable output from the fitted mats meets the room’s calculated heat loss at the permitted floor temperature. Around 70–80% useful coverage is a planning aim, not a pass/fail test. Confirm the complete heating design before removing existing heating.